Anonymous asked: "I’m genderqueer, and present on the masculine side of androgynous. i would love to rock the suit vest look, but i’m apple-shaped with a small chest, and getting a vest that’s big enough for my tummy means the chest is way huge.
"Are there any retailers that make androgynous vests for the female-bodied that downplay the curves, or is tailoring my only option?"
There are two brands I know of that make vests specifically for people who want to downplay their curves. The Butch Clothing Company, based in England, custom-makes suits for female bodied people looking for men’s style suits. Shaz Riley, the founder, travels a lot to meet with clients, but she also does Skype consultations. Marimacho is a brand based out of Brooklyn that makes lifesaving clothes based off of timeless menswear pieces.
The Brooklyn Vest, available at Marimacho for $115. “The perfect complement to our blazer, our vest helps create a masculine shape while minimizing the appearance of a larger chest. Like our blazer, it features an outer-shell comprised of lightweight herringbone wool, full silk lining in our signature cog print, and metal buttons in an antique finish.”
The Butch Clothing Company custom-makes each piece, giving you a choice of fabric, lining color, buttons, etc. Here is one of their pieces. Waistcoats alone start at £200 (approx. $322)
Otherwise, I would suggest tailoring. Find a vest that fits your tummy, and then have a tailor take in the upper part, most likely on the side seam. Good luck!
As Qwear's Founding Editor, Sonny’s work centers around envisioning a future in which the clothing people wear does not dictate their chances of survival. Sonny was awarded 2015 dapperQ of the Year and was the first trans blogger to be sponsored by Topman. In March 2016, Sonny spoke at South by South West's first official queer fashion panel.